Day 27 (September 12)

Up good and early to maximize Crater Lake time. The stove is sputtering a bit while making breakfast -- possibly something we'll have to worry about; it does feel kinda empty when we shake it. Hopefully there'll be a store or hiker box with stove fuel somewhere in the Crater Lake area, although if the fine weather keeps up we could probably go back to our old food-soaking ways.

We're leaving the official PCT again -- the PCT is pedestrian/equestrian by design, but horses are not allowed near the water due to Crater Lake National Park's stringent regulations. The official bypass is to the west, but it sounds like pretty much all the hikers take the Rim Trail right along the lake instead. The Rim Trail, though, is built for fun, not for speed. It's got the views, but after spending a couple hours climbing up and down the cliffs and bluffs we realize just how easy we've got it on the gently-graded proper PCT.

Crater Lake is an awesome sight. If you like staring into crazy blue water, you'll be happy here!

There's a bit of hubbub going on in one of the overlook parking lots, with some rangers peering down the cliff and putting up barricades. Story is that last night a couple stopped their car in a poorly chosen spot on the rim, got out to take pictures, and then watched the car roll down into the lake. Fortunately there were no people in the car. Unfortunately they did leave their dog in there. Fortunately it's a smart dog and it jumped out of the sunroof as the car tumbled down the cliff, and then climbed back up to the road. Now the rangers are trying to arrange a helicopter to haul the wreck out of the water. This is notoriously clear water, but try as we might we can't spot the car.

With some trepidation we approach the Rim Village. This whole complex is run by Xanterra, a notorious "hospitality" monopoly with whom we've feuded before. It's also, best I can tell, the single most crowded spot in all of Oregon. We're far too filthy to lunch at the lodge restaurant (and no luck checking in early to clean up), so we opt for a couple of sad $10 cold sandwiches at the gift shop. The store is utterly useless for our purposes, no fuel or food worth carrying, just junk. The swarms of tourists clamoring for their souvenir spoons and sweatshirts overwhelm the senses.

Eventually we're allowed into our room, which has (surprise!) a view of Crater Lake, which is probably the most beautiful view I've ever seen out any hotel window. Time to freshen up, because we've got guests coming for dinner: Sharon of Ashland (who is in fact our hike's ultimate destination but can also move around) and her friend Nick, who'll be walking with us for a couple days. Can't get a dinner reservation, but the lodge serves drinks and appetizers in the lobby, which makes a pretty good dinner after all. You win this round, Xanterra!